The Perfect Silver Toner

The Perfect Silver Toner

So, the silver trend continues...

Our clients are still loving to see those really platinum or cool blonde tones. Taking the hair to platinum with bleach alone can be a dangerous task. Breakage can occur and once that happens...well, it's done. We really don't have to take the hair to a high platinum with bleach unless we don't plan on toning. However, if we are shooting for the silver or gray finish, we have to tone. Here is the perfect formula I use all the time and it can be tweaked depending on whether you want silver or more gray.
This formula, which consists of two shades can be used to tone highlights or all over blondes. Depending on what tone you are looking for, simply add more or less of the second shade.'s what I use:
Goldwell 12BS and 6SB
6SB??? Yes! But, a little goes a long way! 5-10 grams is all you need depending on whether you want more silver, or more gray.

After wetting the hair in the shampoo area, apply shampoo to the hair and lather it up. while the hair is lathered begin adding your toner and massaging evenly throughout.
So here's the actual formula:

Silver Toner: 12BS (15 grams) and 6SB (5 grams) with 40 grams developer (twice the amount of color)

Gray Toner: 12BS (13 grams) and 6SB (7 grams) The more 6SB, the more gray. Twice the amount of developer

12BS is a very blue based platinum blonde. This leaves the hair very light while cutting out the gold tones, but will not take the hair silver by itself.

6SB is a strong blue green. Obviuosly it is a level 6, but the reason it's important is because you need a dash of the darker cool tones to outweigh the strong warm tones in the hair. This assures you wipe out all warmth in the hair. Make sure you watch it as it tones. It doesn't take long!

Watch the new growth! I don't put the toner on the roots because this formula has plenty of ammonia that will lift the new growth like crazy! Apply to the midshaft first and then work into the hair, massaging it to the ends and roots. Massage and add more color until it's all applied. Keep massaging it around to get the best even result. Watch the newgrowth! If you let it lift higher than a level 7.5, you might end up in a HIOT mess! Babysit this one! Usually only takes 3-5 minutes on most people.

Which developer? 10 volume can do the trick but I often use 20 volume because the hair is wet when applying, which dillutes the developer. Sometimes I use 30 volume if I am trying to get the new growth to lift quickly while the ends are toning. Something I did recently was have two different toners. For the roots to lift, I used 8SB with 20 volume, and the silver toner on the midshaft and ends. It came out great and didn't darken the highlights at the root at all!

If you have asked yourself, "What is the formula to make hair silver or gray?" or "How do I tone the hair to silver or gray?" I hope I answered that for you! 

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Thanks so much! -Jayson Lacy